Jambo! 
o In Jo'burg, we visited the Old Fort prison complex on Constitution Square. Mandela was imprisoned here before being sent to Robben Island. The place was sufficiently depressing to confirm our view that prisons aren't nice places, especially if you're Black and living in S.A.
o In Jo'burg, we visited the Old Fort prison complex on Constitution Square. Mandela was imprisoned here before being sent to Robben Island. The place was sufficiently depressing to confirm our view that prisons aren't nice places, especially if you're Black and living in S.A.
The new Supreme Constitutional Court building is architecturally interesting. Canada and SA now have many judicial similarities, especially in the human rights field. SA has come a long way in the 14 years since the Apartheid era. One fact that we found fascinating: South Africa has 11 official languages. Imagine how that would complicate matters here in Canada, where we sometimes have trouble with 2 languages on a sign!0 Jo'burg is a large city of 11 million people. We aren't sure what we expected, perhaps a small town with thatched huts, but in reality it is a modern and urbane city in the process of urban renewal. Its streets are broad and clean. It is home to 5 large universities, but still has a real and ugly crime problem.
oThis time of year, the savannah here in Kruger Park is like being at Ground Zero after a nuclear blast or a forest after a fire. This is a result of elephant damage as they eat and destroy all foliage and bark. Regrettably, 5,000 of the 12,000 elephants in Kruger must be culled this year because the park can't sustain them in larger numbers.o The weather is unseasonably cold, + 8 C at night, but a welcome relief from the 43 C they had earlier this week.
It's spring here, the rainy season hasn't started yet, and trees are bare and grass is brown. All the guide books warned us of the cold, but hey! We're Canadians! How bad could it be? We found out the hard way. After freezing on the first drive, we dug all of our warm sweaters and jackets out of our suitcases and got into the habit of layering them before venturing out on the early morning drives. 
o We were lucky at our first full day at Umlani Lodge near Kruger. After getting up at 5 AM for our first game drive, we saw 4 of the Big 5. We've seen over 30 elephants (they often come on to the property and drink from the pool, just a few metres from the bar), including a very young calf with its umbilical cord still attached. They told us he was just a day or two old.
On our very first evening drive, we sa
w a young and deceptively passive 4-year old light coloured lioness. Here at Timbavati Reserve, they have been known to have white lions similar to the ones usually found in Tsavo in SW Kenya. Since it was almost dark at the time, the photo isn't as clear as most, but we decided she still deserved a place in our blog.
w a young and deceptively passive 4-year old light coloured lioness. Here at Timbavati Reserve, they have been known to have white lions similar to the ones usually found in Tsavo in SW Kenya. Since it was almost dark at the time, the photo isn't as clear as most, but we decided she still deserved a place in our blog.
We saw 4 white rhinos at Umlani, as well, but the star sighting was a sleek female leopard sitting in a tree with her previous night's kill- an impala. On our evening game drive she was still there, but had brought her 7-month old cub to share the feast. On the savannah impalas are called "MacDonald's" for 2 reasons: they have an "M" shaped marking near their tails, and they're easy meals.
o We're learning to recognize the scat of the different animals: large brown turds for "ellies", black patties for rhinos, and white for hyenas; if there is grass in the rhino droppings, it's a sure sign of a white rhino, not a black one.
o We were lucky to spot 2 ferocious honey badgers, which look like skunks without tails. While usually very docile, they won't hesitate to take on a lion or kill hyenas. We've seen zebras and loads of giraffes and have been able to identify 4 out of their 8 markings.
o We're struck by the incredible diversity and colour of the flora and birds; a true birders' paradise. The perpetual background noises are incredible- and a little scary sometimes, especially at night. We've come to appreciate the idea of an eco-system.
o Flash- on our last morning game drive we spotted and drove through this herd of about 300 Cape buffalo, considered to be the most dangerous big game animal. Luckily for us, they ignored our presence. We also saw lion tracks but no lions.
o We're learning to recognize the scat of the different animals: large brown turds for "ellies", black patties for rhinos, and white for hyenas; if there is grass in the rhino droppings, it's a sure sign of a white rhino, not a black one.
o We were lucky to spot 2 ferocious honey badgers, which look like skunks without tails. While usually very docile, they won't hesitate to take on a lion or kill hyenas. We've seen zebras and loads of giraffes and have been able to identify 4 out of their 8 markings.
o We're struck by the incredible diversity and colour of the flora and birds; a true birders' paradise. The perpetual background noises are incredible- and a little scary sometimes, especially at night. We've come to appreciate the idea of an eco-system.
o Flash- on our last morning game drive we spotted and drove through this herd of about 300 Cape buffalo, considered to be the most dangerous big game animal. Luckily for us, they ignored our presence. We also saw lion tracks but no lions.
The two leopards were still in their tree with the remains of the poor impala, and two hyenas waited below for the leftovers.
o A last word about Umlani Lodge: the proprietor, Dale, his sister, Michelle, and their team are first-rate and have a strong conservationist outlook. The food is hardy and delicious with 
homemade muffins and breads and a wonderful menu. The rangers and trackers are absolutely great and their knowledge seems boundless; they happily answer every question and their ability to track and spot game is uncanny. We noted that their open 4x4 Landrover is equipped with a .458 rifle, large enough to stop anything on 4 feet, but luckily they didn't need to use it while we were there.
o We are now at Pezulu Lodge on another game reserve, staying in a tree-top house. You can see photos on the Pezulu link. We'll keep you advised...
homemade muffins and breads and a wonderful menu. The rangers and trackers are absolutely great and their knowledge seems boundless; they happily answer every question and their ability to track and spot game is uncanny. We noted that their open 4x4 Landrover is equipped with a .458 rifle, large enough to stop anything on 4 feet, but luckily they didn't need to use it while we were there.o We are now at Pezulu Lodge on another game reserve, staying in a tree-top house. You can see photos on the Pezulu link. We'll keep you advised...
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