Saturday, September 20, 2008

Out of Africa- The reality on the ground- 5

o We were in Zim at Victoria Falls on September 18 and 19. The falls are awesome- the raw energy and power is beautiful. The mist creates a beautiful rain forest and the view borders on the spiritual.

o We arrived in Zim 2 days after the new power-sharing agreement was negotiated. Many people greeted us by saying, "Welcome to the New Zimbabwe!" [Since our return, 3 different versions of the agreed-upon power sharing agreement have been discarded by Mugabe, and civil peace seems no closer today than it was before our trip.]

o Vic Falls, notwithstanding its beauty, is solely for tourists, but the tourists aren't coming; it's like a ghost town. Even the local casino was empty and we were only one of 3 couples in the magnificent teak hotel dining room, built to accommodate about 200 people.

o In brief, Zim is grim. It puts a new meaning to the term "economic undervelopment". But then, few have really cared about strategies for economic development since the end of the Cold War. Things are so bad here that people are killing elephants for the meat rather than for the tusks, which are worth $10,000-12,000 US each.

o In the old colonial Rhodesia, railway ties were made of teak and farms were lush. Times have changed. Ironically, people in Zambia and Botswana often send their children to elementary school in Vic Falls despite the problems.

o The people are friendly and decent but the level of poverty and beggary are overwhelming and appalling.

o The people who welcomed us to the New Zim are cautiously optimistic. There are good reasons to be sceptical about their optimism. As one person told us, "The only thing we have is hope". Zimbabwe truly is a beautiful country, and we can only hope that the political situation improves soon, and the tourists are able to return to enjoy the area as much as we did.

o After 2 weeks on the road and living out of our suitcases, we are beginning to feel tired of being perpetually on the go! Still we enjoy all we are seeing and have no desire to cut the trip short. Now we are in Botswana, home of Mma Ramotswe and redbush tea, for those who've read the #1 Ladies Detective Agency books. Haven't seen Mma yet, but we enjoy the redbush tea.

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