Sunday, August 5, 2012

Edifice Complex to Red Vienna


FROM EDIFICE COMPLEX TO RED VIENNA: HISTORICAL AMNESIA

                                                     HE SAYS:

Greetings and farewell from Vienna.

Austria and Vienna both suffer from historical amnesia, but for different reasons. The Austro-Hungarian Empire with its Edifice Complex fractured after 600 years, like the Czarist Empire in Russia, under the weight of WW I. Geo-politically the Austro-Hungarian Empire was a shell of its former self and considerably smaller. Fredric Morton’s marvellous book, The Nervous Splendor, about Austria and Vienna more specifically, during the 1890s captures the spirit of that stratified and sexually hypocritical and ossified middle-class society.

Since the 1880s there has always been an ugly racialist anti-Semitism that has permeated Austrian, and especially, Viennese society. Some cultural and social historians have argued that anti-Semitism was more pervasive in Austria that Germany.

Few people know or remember that between 1900 –1938, Vienna was known as Red Vienna, and with good reason. Vienna in that period had elected the first serious left-wing Marxist municipal government in all of Europe.  These were not just slightly red pinkos, but were serious Marxists affiliated with the revolutionary Second International. They had a vision of the future and the role of the working class in that future.

Vienna was the first city in Europe to provide municipal hospitals, as well as municipal housing; social services and culture flourished and were meant for all people. Red Vienna was viewed as a model city for progressive social programming.

This came to a brutal end with the rise of fascism in Europe, and Austria’s own native Nazi party. Things came to a head during the so-called February 1934 revolution when the left wing of the Social Democratic Party, left socialists, fought it out with the Nazis in the streets of Vienna. For the first time people were prepared to use armed force to prevent the Nazis from taking power, unlike Germany. The Schutzbund was the armed resistance league, the army units of the SDP. They made their last stand against the Austrian Nazis in the Karl Marx Hof housing project in the Ottakreig, the working class west end of Vienna; they were shelled into submission. And the Nazis took power.  All this is recounted in Lillian Hellman's famous novel, Julia, and the marvellous film with Vanessa Redgrave and Jane Fonda.

Today the Karl Marx Hof is a small park and no one seems to know about or remember the February 1934 revolution or the Schutzbund.  

People here do not want to remember their willful support and collaboration with Hitler’s Third Reich. There is no doubt that German Austrians supported the incorporation of Austria into the German Reich. Look at the adoring crowds that greeted Hitler here in Vienna. Austria provided the German army with over a half million men. And the grim fact remains that the Austrians, and the Balts, did the German’s dirty work in the camps. A death camp could be run with 7 SS officers, the rest were Austrians.

Austria, like Japan, has never undergone a formal de-Nazification program as happened in Germany. And people still openly condemn those who fought in the anti-Nazi underground because they sabotaged the German war effort. Kurt Waldheim, who became president of Austria (and later head of the UN) was a SS officer.

Here in Vienna no one that I talked with knew of Red Vienna or of the Schutzbund. Evidently, they are not studied in high school history courses. That history is off limits, and is best forgotten. History has been air brushed. Those events did not happen because they are not remembered. History has been sanitized. Have another strudel….

These are the ghosts of Vienna. In the morning we walked down part of the Ringstrasse. It was fun to imagine all the famous people who also walked down these same streets, everyone from Mozart and Beethoven, to Freud, to Brahms and Mahler, to Adler.  Vienna is an historical museum. It was quite a thrill. Ancient Athens, Renaissance Florence and late 19th century Vienna are the pivotal lynchpins of Western European intellectual history. When I return I want to study the history of salon and café society and their role in disseminating ideas in 19th and 20th C society.

Vienna is a city of culture, coffee and good food. One feels safe here. But beneath the  veneer of glitter and polish it suffers from historical amnesia.

Farewell Vienna….This has been a busy and exhausting holiday, but not quite the relaxing vacation we expected.  We will file our summary blog from Ottawa. We fly tomorrow morning.



                                                      SHE SAYS:



Our last day in Vienna!  After 5 days steeped in the history and all the “shoulds” of Vienna that the guide books directed us to, we decided to spend our last few hours away from the usual tourist haunts and end on a much lighter note.

We’ve already mentioned the Film Festival that’s being held at the Rathaus, or city hall, a short walk from the hotel.  We visited it

a few nights ago and drooled over the fabulous food stalls, but went to a restaurant nearby for our dinner because the crowds and the lineups were crazy.  Last night, we decided to fight the crowds like everyone else, and went back for dinner.  For me, the most interesting thing about the food was that there was very little of what we think of as fast food: no French fries, burgers, pizza, nachos.  Instead, they had meat stews, interesting salads, huge sausages, schnitzels, giant pretzels, all kinds of African, Japanese and Chinese dishes, Austrian specialties that we’d never heard of before made with noodles, meats, and chopped veggies. The booths were sponsored by local restaurants, and we would have happily managed to find something great to eat at every one.  Since we had to make up our minds eventually, we decided on a huge fresh salad topped with fresh grilled garlic-infused calamari, and a “Tyrolean plate” of dumplings, sauerkraut, and what looked like hunks of roast pork and ham in a sausage casing, washed down with Austrian beer. 

As luck would have it, a table emptied just as we got our food, so we grabbed it and started to work our way through the two gigantic plates of food. Fabulous!   A young Korean tourist asked if he could share the table, so as we ate, we talked with him.  He’s spending 6 weeks travelling alone through Europe, getting home just in time to start his final year of university.  I asked him if it was lonely travelling alone.  “Sometimes,” he said, “but it is good for me.  When I travel alone, I get to meet myself.”  Well said, I thought.

 This morning, we took the Vienna subway for the first time to visit the Riesenrad, a giant ferris wheel that’s over 100 years old.  It’s probably the model for the London Eye, which is larger and obviously much newer, but the one here has been well-maintained, and it gave us a great view of the city.  Instead of little 2-seater cars like a regular ferris wheel, this one has red wooden cars that hold about 10 people.  You can sit on the wooden bench in the centre of the car or stand up and walk around to see a lovely 360 degree panorama of Vienna.  Just like on the London Eye, people are apparently able to book private cars for celebrations of different kinds.  We saw one car filled with silver and white balloons, and a couple of them had tables with white cloths, ready with glasses and champagne bottles for the guests.

The ferris wheel is set in the centre of a permanent amusement park with all kinds of great rides, but I didn’t even suggest a roller coaster or bumper cars afterwards; the ferris wheel (along with the café visits) was my thank you for the culture overdose I’ve been exposed to in the past few days.  I wasn’t going to push my luck!  We walked around the park and ate ice cream, and that was almost as good as more rides, especially since it was such a great place for people-watching.  Just like at home, the kids ranged from the ultra-hyper ones who want to do everything at once, to the quiet ones with the huge eyes and wide smiles who are just so thrilled to be there that they don’t have a clue what they want to do…with a few contrary ones thrown in for fun, who won’t be happy no matter what they do. 

Of course, there were all kinds of souvenirs for sale at the fair grounds: everything from cheap plastic toys to pieces of crystal and fine china.  One t-shirt stood out: a picture of a kangaroo with a line through it and the words NO KANGAROOS IN AUSTRIA.  I asked the saleslady if people actually come to Austria thinking they’re visiting Australia, and she said, “Oh, yes.  More than you’d believe.”  Weird!

We took the subway back to our hotel to pack, with a side trip to have our last Viennese coffee.  OK, I admit it: we shared an apple strudel, too.  Dinner tonight will probably be another of those dinner-plate sized schnitzels, and then it’s home tomorrow to do laundry and get serious about our diet.

It’s been fun!

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