SHE SAYS: Looks as if the tantrum is over- for now, and the Blarney Stone worked. (see below) Although he wants it on record that objects to my wording of the previous sentence. Still, he's baaaack!
HE SAYS: We are entering the last phase of our trip and some people are saddle weary and becoming grumpy after three weeks on the road. (Not us, of course!) So some quick comments and observations.
Here in the British Isles there is an entirely different sense of historical time. Here castles and pubs date back to 1098 -- literally. The other day we had lunch at a pub that was 800 years old; that's before Shakespeare, and the other afternoon we were in another pub that had a Viking wall in it. And the number of castles that date from the 13th century is endless. Ho-hum, another ruin. In Canada history as a practical matter history doesn’t start until around 1750 with Kingston and the like. This doesn't even qualify as history on this side of the pond. Newer -- or younger -- does not necessarily mean better. In Europe and Britain one acquires a new sense of history and historical perspective.
One of the original reasons that I wanted to do this trip to the British Isles was to compare and contrast Scotland and Ireland, and their respective cultures side- by- side. Initially, I was going to make a smart comment that this was like comparing the dour with the maudlin. But that's too easy. The Scottish clan structure and home rule helped preserve their unique culture, while a tight peasant culture and the external British threat- and, of course, Guinness- accomplished the same for the Irish. After appreciating Scottish and Irish culture I've come to the conclusion that they are the lost tribes of Israel.
About two days ago we all kissed the Blarney stone, which was a lot of fun, but blarney. Dylan, our tour guide, tells us that while kissing the stone is fun, it’s even more fun to kiss someone who’s kissed the Blarney Stone. We did both, so we’re even more full of blarney than most. But you already knew that, didn’t you?
I had never thought of it before, but the different designs on Irish fisherman's sweaters were intended to help identify the bodies of drowned fisherman. And as bright as some of them are, tartans were designed to camouflage their wearers as they walked across the hills.
Today here in Dublin I went on a private tour titled, “The 1916 Rebellion Tour” to visit places associated with the abortive 1916 uprising against the British. Lorcan, the tour guide, was quite good, informative and humorous; while the rapidity of his delivery was like that of a British machine gun at the GPO. Certainly the best films about the Irish resistance to the Brits are “Michael Collins” and “The Hand that Shakes the Barley”. Both are fairly brutal.
Dublin is a city with history; it is a bustling, if not thriving city with many bistros, cafes and pubs. The Grafton Street area in city center is particularly interesting and lively, with buskers and outdoor cafes and wall-to-wall tourists. Dublin’s historical reputation and impact on twentieth century literature is probably unparalleled to any other city in the world. I was struck by the flourishing cultural life including the numerous small string quartets, live drama and film clubs. Killarney stands in contrast as a delightful, but small town with cobbled streets; I wished we had spent more time there. Notwithstanding the recent economic collapse and bailout of the Irish economy, life here seems fairly prosperous. Using the famous Deaton Car Index as a proxy of social affluence this is certainly suggested by the large number of big cars here when compared to the smaller ones in Italy, Portugal, France, Greece and other European cities.
We also went to visit Trinity College and the well-known Book of Kells, with its beautiful illuminated manuscript. That said, the Long Room Library was absolutely stunning and stole the show with its 20 foot floor- to -ceiling book shelves. The place just oozed culture and learning. All that was missing was the port from an Oxbridge High Table. To enhance this effect was an exhibition celebrating the history of the Trinity College Medical School; this was replete with 18th and 19th century medical textbooks, which were in their own right pieces of art and are medical treasures.
Tomorrow we leave Ireland at 5:30 AM (!!!) and head off through Wales, which was supposed to be nothing more than a direct route back to England. But Dylan is Welsh, and has decided that we need to spend a little more time in the most beautiful part of Britain, so most of tomorrow will be spent on a detour through Wales, including a stop in his home town and a visit to his “local”. Then it’s on to Bath, Plymouth, and Stonehenge; we come full circle and end the trip in London, as does our blog.
This Insight tour, our skilled driver, Neville, and especially our tour manager, Dylan, have been first rate. We have nothing but good things to say about him. It has been a real pleasure travelling with him. We have learned a lot, and have thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. While Guinness is referred to as black gold and definitely tastes much better in Ireland the way everybody says, personally I prefer Beamish. And without a doubt the best Irish whisky in the world is Redbreast, whilst the best Scottish single malt, at least to my taste, is Dalwinnie. Thank you, Dylan and Neville, for introducing me to the drink of the gods.
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